Merge remote-tracking branch 'origin/master' into develop

.gitignore

@@ -95,6 +95,11 @@ tags
 *.mpeg
 *.ttf
 *.otf
+# Un-ignore limited image file formats in docs
+!docs/public/**.gif
+!docs/public/**.jpg
+!docs/public/**.jpeg
+!docs/public/**.png
 
 # Things Travis sees
 /.vs

docs/driver_installation_zadig.md

@@ -22,7 +22,7 @@ If Zadig lists one or more devices with the `HidUsb` driver, your keyboard is pr
 
 If the arrow appears green, select the driver, and click **Install Driver**. See the [list of known bootloaders](#list-of-known-bootloaders) for the correct driver to install.
 
-![Zadig with a bootloader driver correctly installed](https://i.imgur.com/b8VgXzx.png)
+![Zadig with a bootloader driver correctly installed](/b8VgXzx.png)
 
 Finally, unplug and replug the keyboard to make sure the new driver has been loaded. If you are using the QMK Toolbox to flash, exit and restart it too, as it can sometimes fail to recognize the driver change.
 
@@ -30,15 +30,15 @@ Finally, unplug and replug the keyboard to make sure the new driver has been loa
 
 If you find that you can no longer type with the keyboard, you may have accidentally replaced the driver for the keyboard itself instead of for the bootloader. This can happen when the keyboard is not in the bootloader mode. You can easily confirm this in Zadig - a healthy keyboard has the `HidUsb` driver installed on all of its interfaces:
 
-![A healthy keyboard as seen by Zadig](https://i.imgur.com/Hx0E5kC.png)
+![A healthy keyboard as seen by Zadig](/Hx0E5kC.png)
 
 Open the Device Manager, select **View → Devices by container**, and look for an entry with your keyboard's name.
 
-![The board with the wrong driver installed, in Device Manager](https://i.imgur.com/o7WLvBl.png)
+![The board with the wrong driver installed, in Device Manager](/o7WLvBl.png)
 
 Right-click each entry and hit **Uninstall device**. Make sure to tick **Delete the driver software for this device** first if it appears.
 
-![The Device Uninstall dialog, with the "delete driver" checkbox ticked](https://i.imgur.com/aEs2RuA.png)
+![The Device Uninstall dialog, with the "delete driver" checkbox ticked](/aEs2RuA.png)
 
 Click **Action → Scan for hardware changes**. At this point, you should be able to type again. Double check in Zadig that the keyboard device(s) are using the `HidUsb` driver. If so, you're all done, and your board should be functional again! Otherwise, repeat this process until Zadig reports the correct driver.
 
@@ -54,11 +54,11 @@ Open the Device Manager, select **View → Devices by container**, and look for
 
 Find the `Inf name` value in the Details tab of the device properties. This should generally be something like `oemXX.inf`:
 
-![Device properties showing the Inf name value](https://i.imgur.com/Bu4mk9m.png)
+![Device properties showing the Inf name value](/Bu4mk9m.png)
 
 Then, open a new Command Prompt window as an Administrator (type in `cmd` into the Start menu and press Ctrl+Shift+Enter). Run `pnputil /enum-drivers` to verify the `Inf name` matches the `Published Name` field of one of the entries:
 
-![pnputil output with matching driver highlighted](https://i.imgur.com/3RrSjzW.png)
+![pnputil output with matching driver highlighted](/3RrSjzW.png)
 
 Run `pnputil /delete-driver oemXX.inf /uninstall`. This will delete the driver and remove it from any devices using it. Note that this will not uninstall the device itself.
 

docs/easy_maker.md

@@ -24,7 +24,7 @@ As its name implies Direct Pin works by connecting one switch per pin. The other
 
 Here is a schematic showing how we connect a single button to pin A3 on a ProMicro:
 
-![Schematic diagram showing a ProMicro with a wire coming out of A3, connecting to the left side of a switch. Another wire comes out of the right side of the switch to connect to the Ground Plane.](https://i.imgur.com/JcDhZll.png)
+![Schematic diagram showing a ProMicro with a wire coming out of A3, connecting to the left side of a switch. Another wire comes out of the right side of the switch to connect to the Ground Plane.](/JcDhZll.png)
 
 Once you have wired your switches you can assign keycodes to each pin and build a firmware by selecting the MCU you are using from the Keyboard dropdown. Use this link to show only Easy Maker Direct Pin:
 

docs/faq_keymap.md

@@ -13,7 +13,7 @@ Keycodes are actually defined in [quantum/keycode.h](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_
 There are 3 standard keyboard layouts in use around the world- ANSI, ISO, and JIS. North America primarily uses ANSI, Europe and Africa primarily use ISO, and Japan uses JIS. Regions not mentioned typically use either ANSI or ISO. The keycodes corresponding to these layouts are shown here:
 
 <!-- Source for this image: https://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/bf431647d1001cff5eff20ae55621e9a -->
-![Keyboard Layout Image](https://i.imgur.com/5wsh5wM.png)
+![Keyboard Layout Image](/5wsh5wM.png)
 
 ## How Can I Make Custom Names For Complex Keycodes?
 

docs/features/autocorrect.md

@@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ The feature maintains a small buffer of recent key presses. On each key press, i
 
 The tricky part is how to efficiently check the buffer for typos. We don’t want to spend too much memory or time on storing or searching the typos. A good solution is to represent the typos with a trie data structure. A trie is a tree data structure where each node is a letter, and words are formed by following a path to one of the leaves.
 
-![An example trie](https://i.imgur.com/HL5DP8H.png)
+![An example trie](/HL5DP8H.png)
 
 Since we search whether the buffer ends in a typo, we store the trie writing in reverse. The trie is queried starting from the last letter, then second to last letter, and so on, until either a letter doesn’t match or we reach a leaf, meaning a typo was found.
 
@@ -279,7 +279,7 @@ All autocorrection data is stored in a single flat array autocorrect_data. Each
 * 01 ⇒ branching node: a trie node with multiple children.
 * 10 ⇒ leaf node: a leaf, corresponding to a typo and storing its correction.
 
-![An example trie](https://i.imgur.com/HL5DP8H.png)
+![An example trie](/HL5DP8H.png)
 
 **Branching node**. Each branch is encoded with one byte for the keycode (KC_A–KC_Z) followed by a link to the child node. Links between nodes are 16-bit byte offsets relative to the beginning of the array, serialized in little endian order.
 

docs/features/backlight.md

@@ -227,7 +227,7 @@ In this typical example, the backlight LEDs are all connected in parallel toward
 A pulldown resistor is also placed between the gate pin and ground to keep it at a defined state when it is not otherwise being driven by the MCU.
 The values of these resistors are not critical - see [this Electronics StackExchange question](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q/68748) for more information.
 
-![Backlight example circuit](https://i.imgur.com/BmAvoUC.png)
+![Backlight example circuit](/BmAvoUC.png)
 
 ## API {#api}
 

docs/features/layer_lock.md

@@ -35,12 +35,12 @@ layer.
 
 Consider a keymap with the following base layer.
 
-![Base layer with a MO(NAV) key.](https://i.imgur.com/DkEhj9x.png)
+![Base layer with a MO(NAV) key.](/DkEhj9x.png)
 
 The highlighted key is a momentary layer switch `MO(NAV)`. Holding it accesses a
 navigation layer.
 
-![Nav layer with a Layer Lock key.](https://i.imgur.com/2wUZNWk.png)
+![Nav layer with a Layer Lock key.](/2wUZNWk.png)
 
 
 Holding the NAV key is fine for brief use, but awkward to continue holding when

docs/features/rgblight.md

@@ -55,7 +55,7 @@ Changing the **Hue** cycles around the circle.<br>
 Changing the **Saturation** moves between the inner and outer sections of the wheel, affecting the intensity of the color.<br>
 Changing the **Value** sets the overall brightness.<br>
 
-![QMK Color Wheel with HSV Values](https://i.imgur.com/vkYVo66.jpg)
+![QMK Color Wheel with HSV Values](/vkYVo66.jpg)
 
 ## Keycodes
 

docs/features/split_keyboard.md

@@ -91,11 +91,11 @@ SPLIT_TRANSPORT = custom
 
 Configuring your layout in a split keyboard works slightly differently to a non-split keyboard. Take for example the following layout. The top left numbers refer to the matrix row and column, and the bottom right are the order of the keys in the layout:
 
-![Physical layout](https://i.imgur.com/QeY6kMQ.png)
+![Physical layout](/QeY6kMQ.png)
 
 Since the matrix scanning procedure operates on entire rows, it first populates the left half's rows, then the right half's. Thus, the matrix as QMK views it has double the rows instead of double the columns:
 
-![Matrix](https://i.imgur.com/4wjJzBU.png)
+![Matrix](/4wjJzBU.png)
 
 ### Setting Handedness
 
@@ -497,7 +497,7 @@ Once you have done that, you will want to solder the diode from the 5V pad to th
 
 You may need to use the 5V pad from the regulator block above as the pads were too small and placed too closely together to place the Schottky diode properly.
 
-![Teensy++ 2.0](https://i.imgur.com/BPEC5n5.png)
+![Teensy++ 2.0](/BPEC5n5.jpg)
 
 ## Additional Resources
 

docs/getting_started_github.md

@@ -8,15 +8,15 @@ This guide assumes you're somewhat comfortable with running things at the comman
 
 Start on the [QMK GitHub page](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware), and you'll see a button in the upper right that says "Fork":
 
-![Fork on GitHub](https://i.imgur.com/8Toomz4.jpg)
+![Fork on GitHub](/8Toomz4.jpg)
 
 If you're a part of an organization, you'll need to choose which account to fork it to. In most circumstances, you'll want to fork it to your personal account. Once your fork is completed (sometimes this takes a little while), click the "Clone or Download" button:
 
-![Download from GitHub](https://i.imgur.com/N1NYcSz.jpg)
+![Download from GitHub](/N1NYcSz.jpg)
 
 And be sure to select "HTTPS", and select the link and copy it:
 
-![HTTPS link](https://i.imgur.com/eGO0ohO.jpg)
+![HTTPS link](/eGO0ohO.jpg)
 
 From here, enter `git clone --recurse-submodules ` into the command line, and then paste your link:
 
@@ -57,10 +57,10 @@ To https://github.com/whoeveryouare/qmk_firmware.git
 
 Your changes now exist on your fork on GitHub - if you go back there (`https://github.com/<whoeveryouare>/qmk_firmware`), you can create a "New Pull Request" by clicking this button:
 
-![New Pull Request](https://i.imgur.com/DxMHpJ8.jpg)
+![New Pull Request](/DxMHpJ8.jpg)
 
 Here you'll be able to see exactly what you've committed - if it all looks good, you can finalize it by clicking "Create Pull Request":
 
-![Create Pull Request](https://i.imgur.com/Ojydlaj.jpg)
+![Create Pull Request](/Ojydlaj.jpg)
 
 After submitting, we may talk to you about your changes, ask that you make changes, and eventually accept it! Thanks for contributing to QMK :)

docs/hand_wire.md

@@ -36,12 +36,12 @@ What you want to achieve is one leg from each switch being attached to the corre
 
 It is fairly simple to plan for an ortholinear keyboard (like a Planck).
 
-![Example Planck matrix](https://i.imgur.com/FRShcLD.png)
+![Example Planck matrix](/FRShcLD.png)
 Image from [RoastPotatoes' "How to hand wire a Planck"](https://blog.roastpotatoes.co/guide/2015/11/04/how-to-handwire-a-planck/)
 
 But the larger and more complicated your keyboard, the more complex the matrix.  [Keyboard Firmware Builder](https://kbfirmware.com/) can help you plan your matrix layout (shown here with a basic fullsize ISO keyboard imported from [Keyboard Layout Editor](https://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com).
 
-![Example ISO matrix](https://i.imgur.com/UlJ4ZDP.png)
+![Example ISO matrix](/UlJ4ZDP.png)
 
 Bear in mind that the number of rows plus the number of columns can not exceed the number of I/O pins on your controller.  So the fullsize matrix shown above would be possible on a Proton C or Teensy++, but not on a regular Teensy or Pro Micro.
 
@@ -51,14 +51,14 @@ Bear in mind that the number of rows plus the number of columns can not exceed t
 | :------------ |:-------------:| ------:| ------ |
 | Pro Micro*    | ATmega32u4    |     20 | [link](https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pro-micro--fio-v3-hookup-guide/hardware-overview-pro-micro#Teensy++_2.0)       |
 | Teensy 2.0    | ATmega32u4    |     25 | [link](https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/pinout.html)       |
-| [QMK Proton C](https://qmk.fm/proton-c/)      | STM32F303xC   |     36 | [link 1](https://i.imgur.com/RhtrAlc.png), [2](https://deskthority.net/wiki/QMK_Proton_C)       |
+| [QMK Proton C](https://qmk.fm/proton-c/)      | STM32F303xC   |     36 | [link 1](https://qmk.fm/proton-c-pinout.jpg), [2](https://deskthority.net/wiki/QMK_Proton_C)       |
 | Teensy++ 2.0  | AT90USB1286   |     46 | [link](https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/pinout.html#Teensy_2.0)       |
 
 *Elite C is essentially the same as a Pro Micro with a USB-C instead of Micro-USB
 
 There are also a number of boards designed specifically for handwiring that mount directly to a small number of switches and offer pinouts for the rest.  Though these are generally more expensive and may be more difficult to get hold of.
 
-<img src="https://i.imgur.com/QiA3ta6.jpg" alt="Postage board mini mounted in place" width="500"/>
+<img src="/QiA3ta6.jpg" alt="Postage board mini mounted in place" width="500"/>
 
 | Board         | Controller    | # I/O  |
 | :------------ |:-------------:| ------:|
@@ -74,13 +74,13 @@ Established materials and techniques include:
 
 | Technique     | Examples | Pros | Cons | Image
 | :-----------| :------- | :------ | :--- | :---
-| Lengths of wire with stripped segments | [Sasha Solomon's Dactyl](https://medium.com/@sachee/building-my-first-keyboard-and-you-can-too-512c0f8a4c5f) and [Cribbit's modern hand wire](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=87689.0) | Neat and tidy | Some effort in stripping the wire | ![Stripped wire](https://i.imgur.com/0GNIYY0.jpg)
-| Short lengths of wire | [u/xicolinguada's ortho build](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/c39k4f/my_first_hand_wired_keyboard_its_not_perfect_but/) | Easier to strip the wire | More difficult to place | ![individual wire lengths](https://i.imgur.com/mBe5vkL.jpg)
-| Magnet/Enamelled wire | [fknraiden's custom board](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74223.0) | Can be directly soldered onto (insulation burns off with heat) | Appearance? | ![Magnet wire](https://i.imgur.com/b4b7KDb.jpg)
-| Bending the legs of the diodes for the rows | [Matt3o's Brownfox](https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6050) | Fewer solder joints required | Uninsulated | ![Bent diode legs](https://i.imgur.com/aTnG8TV.jpg)
-| Using rigid wiring (e.g. brass tube) | [u/d_stilgar's invisible hardline](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8aw5j2/invisible_hardline_keyboard_progress_update_april/) and [u/jonasfasler's first attempt](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/de1jyv/my_first_attempt_at_handwiring_a_keyboard/) | Very pretty | More difficult. No physical insulation | ![Hardline hand wire](https://i.imgur.com/CnASmPo.jpg)
-| Bare wire with insulation added after (e.g. kapton tape) | [Matt3o's 65% on his website](https://matt3o.com/hand-wiring-a-custom-keyboard/) | Easier (no wire stripping required) | Not as attractive | ![Bare wire](https://i.imgur.com/AvXZShD.jpg)
-| Copper tape | [ManuForm Dactyl](https://github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard) | Very easy | Only really works when your plate/case aligns with the bottom of your switches | ![Copper tape](https://i.imgur.com/RFyNMlL.jpg)
+| Lengths of wire with stripped segments | [Sasha Solomon's Dactyl](https://medium.com/@sachee/building-my-first-keyboard-and-you-can-too-512c0f8a4c5f) and [Cribbit's modern hand wire](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=87689.0) | Neat and tidy | Some effort in stripping the wire | ![Stripped wire](/0GNIYY0.jpg)
+| Short lengths of wire | [u/xicolinguada's ortho build](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/c39k4f/my_first_hand_wired_keyboard_its_not_perfect_but/) | Easier to strip the wire | More difficult to place | ![individual wire lengths](/mBe5vkL.jpg)
+| Magnet/Enamelled wire | [fknraiden's custom board](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74223.0) | Can be directly soldered onto (insulation burns off with heat) | Appearance? | ![Magnet wire](/b4b7KDb.jpg)
+| Bending the legs of the diodes for the rows | [Matt3o's Brownfox](https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6050) | Fewer solder joints required | Uninsulated | ![Bent diode legs](/aTnG8TV.jpg)
+| Using rigid wiring (e.g. brass tube) | [u/d_stilgar's invisible hardline](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8aw5j2/invisible_hardline_keyboard_progress_update_april/) and [u/jonasfasler's first attempt](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/de1jyv/my_first_attempt_at_handwiring_a_keyboard/) | Very pretty | More difficult. No physical insulation | ![Hardline hand wire](/CnASmPo.jpg)
+| Bare wire with insulation added after (e.g. kapton tape) | [Matt3o's 65% on his website](https://matt3o.com/hand-wiring-a-custom-keyboard/) | Easier (no wire stripping required) | Not as attractive | ![Bare wire](/AvXZShD.jpg)
+| Copper tape | [ManuForm Dactyl](https://github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard) | Very easy | Only really works when your plate/case aligns with the bottom of your switches | ![Copper tape](/RFyNMlL.jpg)
 
 
 Note that these methods can be combined.  Prepare your lengths of wire before moving on to soldering.
@@ -97,11 +97,11 @@ There are a lot of soldering guides and tips available elsewhere but here are so
 
 To ensure a strong solder joint you want a good amount of contact between the solder and the two pieces of metal you are connecting. A good way of doing this (though not required) is looping around pins or twisting wires together before applying solder.
 
-<img src="https://i.imgur.com/eHJjmnU.jpg" alt="Looped around rod" width="200"/> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/8nbxmmr.jpg?1" alt="Looped diode leg" width="200"/>
+<img src="/eHJjmnU.jpg" alt="Looped around rod" width="400"/>
 
 If your diodes are on a packaging strip and need a bend in them (either the start of a loop or for connecting to its neighbour) this can easily done by bending it over something straight like the edge of a box, table, or ruler.  This also helps keep track of the direction of the diode as all the bends will be on the same side.
 
-<img src="https://i.imgur.com/oITudbX.jpg" alt="Bent diode legs" width="200"/>
+<img src="/oITudbX.jpg" alt="Bent diode legs" width="400"/>
 
 If your iron has temperature control, set it to 315ºC (600ºF).
 
@@ -164,7 +164,7 @@ Cut wires to the length of the distance from the a point on each column/row to t
 
 Ribbon cable can be used to keep this extra tidy.  You may also want to consider routing the wires beneath the existing columns/rows.
 
-<img src="https://i.imgur.com/z2QlKfB.jpg" alt="Ribbon Cable" width="350"/>
+<img src="/z2QlKfB.jpg" alt="Ribbon Cable" width="600"/>
 
 As you solder the wires to the controller make a note of which row/column is going to which pin on the controller as we'll use this data to setup the matrix when we create the firmware.
 

docs/newbs_building_firmware_configurator.md

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@
 # QMK Configurator
 
-[![QMK Configurator Screenshot](https://i.imgur.com/anw9cOL.png)](https://config.qmk.fm/)
+[![QMK Configurator Screenshot](/anw9cOL.png)](https://config.qmk.fm/)
 
 The [QMK Configurator](https://config.qmk.fm) is an online graphical user interface that generates QMK Firmware `.hex` or `.bin` files.
 

docs/newbs_external_userspace.md

@@ -32,11 +32,11 @@ Building locally has a much shorter turnaround time than waiting for GitHub Acti
 
 A basic skeleton External Userspace repository can be found [here](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_userspace). If you wish to keep your keymaps on GitHub (strongly recommended!), you can fork the repository and use it as a base:
 
-![Userspace Fork](https://i.imgur.com/hcegguh.png)
+![Userspace Fork](/hcegguh.png)
 
 Going ahead with your fork will copy it to your account, at which point you can clone it to your local machine and begin adding your keymaps:
 
-![Userspace Clone](https://i.imgur.com/CWYmsk8.png)
+![Userspace Clone](/CWYmsk8.png)
 
 ```sh
 cd $HOME
@@ -99,8 +99,8 @@ All firmware builds you've added to the External Userspace build targets will be
 
 GitHub Actions can be used to automatically build your keymaps whenever you push changes to your External Userspace repository. If you have set up your list of build targets, this is as simple as enabling workflows in the GitHub repository settings:
 
-![Repo Settings](https://i.imgur.com/EVkxOt1.png)
+![Repo Settings](/EVkxOt1.png)
 
 Any push will result in compilation of all configured builds, and once completed a new release containing the newly-minted firmware files will be created on GitHub, which you can subsequently download and flash to your keyboard:
 
-![Releases](https://i.imgur.com/zmwOL5P.png)
+![Releases](/zmwOL5P.png)

docs/other_eclipse.md

@@ -66,7 +66,7 @@ Once both plugins are installed, restart Eclipse as prompted.
   * Select the _AVR-GCC Toolchain_;
   * Keep the rest as-is and click <kbd>Finish</kbd>
 
-  ![Importing QMK in Eclipse](https://i.imgur.com/oHYR1yW.png)
+  ![Importing QMK in Eclipse](/oHYR1yW.png)
 
 3. The project will now be loaded and indexed. Its files can be browsed easily through the _Project Explorer_ on the left.
 

docs/other_vscode.md

@@ -174,7 +174,7 @@ You'll need to perform some modifications to the file above in order to target y
 * `"armToolchainPath"`: _[Optional]_ The path to the ARM toolchain installation location on Windows -- under normal circumstances Linux/macOS will auto-detect this correctly and will not need to be specified. 
 
 ::: warning
-Windows builds of QMK Firmware are generally compiled using QMK MSYS, and the path to gdb's location (`C:\\QMK_MSYS\\mingw64\\bin`) needs to be specified under `armToolchainPath` for it to be detected. You may also need to change the GDB path to point at `C:\\QMK_MSYS\\mingw64\\bin\\gdb-multiarch.exe` in the VSCode Cortex-Debug user settings: ![VSCode Settings](https://i.imgur.com/EGrPM1L.png)
+Windows builds of QMK Firmware are generally compiled using QMK MSYS, and the path to gdb's location (`C:\\QMK_MSYS\\mingw64\\bin`) needs to be specified under `armToolchainPath` for it to be detected. You may also need to change the GDB path to point at `C:\\QMK_MSYS\\mingw64\\bin\\gdb-multiarch.exe` in the VSCode Cortex-Debug user settings: ![VSCode Settings](/EGrPM1L.png)
 :::
 
 The following modifications must be made to the keyboard's `rules.mk` file to enable debug information and disable optimisations -- this will ensure breakpoints and variable viewing works correctly:

docs/platformdev_blackpill_f4x1.md

@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ The WeAct Blackpill is a popular choice for handwired boards, as it offers a pow
 * [WeAct GitHub for F4x1 Blackpill](https://github.com/WeActStudio/WeActStudio.MiniSTM32F4x1)
   * Unfortunately, due to supply issues official WeAct F411 based blackpills may not be available.
 
-![Blackpill F411](https://i.imgur.com/nCgeolTh.png)
+![Blackpill F411](/nCgeolTh.png)
 
 
 ## Pin Usage Limitations

docs/platformdev_proton_c.md

@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
 
 The Proton C is an Arm STM32F303xC based drop-in replacement for the Pro Micro.
 
-<img src="https://i.imgur.com/GdsN1Rdh.jpg" alt="Proton C" />
+<img src="https://qmk.fm/proton-c.jpg" alt="Proton C" width="800"/>
 
 #### Features
 

docs/platformdev_rp2040.md

@@ -17,8 +17,8 @@ The following table shows the current driver status for peripherals on RP2040 MC
 
 ## GPIO
 
-<img alt="Raspberry Pi Pico pinout" src="https://i.imgur.com/nLaiYDE.jpg" width="48%"/>
-<img alt="Sparkfun RP2040 Pro Micro pinout" src="https://i.imgur.com/1TPAhrs.jpg" width="48%"/>
+<img alt="Raspberry Pi Pico pinout" src="/nLaiYDE.jpg" width="48%"/>
+<img alt="Sparkfun RP2040 Pro Micro pinout" src="/1TPAhrs.jpg" width="48%"/>
 
 ::: warning
 The GPIO pins of the RP2040 are not 5V tolerant!